The traditional LED header is available, and can be used alone, or theoretically fed back in to one of the other headers if so desired. If you dont have all the necessary parts, please read about how to source the parts. You should see all the contacts in sockets. Make sure Switch Legs are not bended and are aligned with socket holes. Cherry MX Switch Comparison by KeyMouse. Lily 58 pro Mechanical Keyboard | 1.5 Year Update I've been using my Lily 58 Pro for about a year and a half and it looks a bit different these days so I thought I would give an updated video on. Elite-C v3.0 had problems when used with split boards (on both halves). With the QMK Toolbox route, the setup was as simple as: The microcontrollers should both be good to go! Be careful so you dont bend their contacts. This commit does not belong to any branch on this repository, and may belong to a fork outside of the repository. The side with chips and other electronics should be at the bottom facing the main PCB. Second, I own more mechanical keyboards (keeb) than my pocket desires. Lily58 Build Service (required) Lily58 Kit (required) 2x Controllers (required) 20 are going to hold the boards together (via spacers). That brings the total cost to ~$252 USD! The diodes are supplied in a plastic tape reel. I recently finished a build of a Lily58 Pro kit purchased from boardsource. Its clean side should be at the top, visible. The command might look something like this: Connect the second half and flash it in the same way as the previous one. , As an advice, to build your firmware use a virtualized environment because QMK depends on a bunch of system libraries with specific versions that may not match your system. From this part on things will get easier: You are done! There may be a problem with the key switch's insertion, socket or diode soldering. Watch the markings on the silkscreen which show the correct orientation. One keyboard vendor - Keyhive - is selling their own fork of Sofle RGB. Version 1: the Pro Micro board should be mounted bottom-up. The process involves a lot of research: you will learn a lot about electronics , watch tons of Youtube videos about soldering SMD, read a large number of comments and experiences online. A build log / reference post covering my first stab at a hardware project: building a split ergonomic keyboard running the QMK firmware. Usually, switches come prelubed, which basically consist on opening each switch and apply some special lubricant on its insides, on the spring, and the stem. There are several ready-made consumer options out there like the ZSA Moonlander and Dygma Raise but both are relatively pricey for a keyboard, selling for over $350. throughhole diodes are not recommended due to a footprint error, Choc: 4 mm, MX: 7 mm. Remedy: This can be easily corrected by adding a wire between the via and the trace immediately above it in the picture. Make sure halves are not connected together with TRRS cable. If you chose to not use OLED for both halves you should disable support for oled (set OLED_DRIVER_ENABLE to no in keymaps/defualt/rules.mk). More soldering basics and tips! Then solder the remaining side. The diodes are mounted on the back side of the board. In addition, please be careful, as the case will be scratched if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly. Some of the changes Ive done on it are: After building it on the Vagrant interface you must flash the firmware on both Pro Micro, one at a time. QMK is the software of choice for these keyboards. Please mind that the layout has slight modifications, mainly the pinkie stagger is less aggresive than for non-RGB Sofle V2. The image shows a soldered MX socket; please install Choc socket on the lower side. Hello and welcome to the temporary Lily58 KB Build Guide. NOTE: The kits now includes an FR4 plate case. The build is completed by attaching the four rubber feet to the back of each board. Even after many years of use, the Sculpt keyboard still functions really well and so I wouldn't say it has any faults for my day-to-day needs, but I wanted to go back to the mechanical typing experience and give other layouts a shot. After removing the key switch, make sure that the pins aren't bent, and then push it in again and install it. I have added a single LED to the top surface to act as a layer indicator, this is enabled by bridging 2-3 on J6(indicator bypass). Sofle keyboard uses QMK Firmware and support for the board is part of the main QMK repository. Customize my keymap, lily58 pro supports 4 different keymaps reachable through the LOWER and RAISE physical buttons. keyboard for myself but one that could alleviate my wrist while, my DIY spirit my requirements: build on top of open-source hardware and software so I could modify it; Make sure the OLED is enabled in rules.mk file in QMK as suggested in step 4. Insert a switch into a hot swap socket and test that a keycode is pressed. This self-made keyboard use the QMK firmware, described above. You should be familiar with QMK and be able to make it work on your local environment. But hey! I was not able to get 7mm, but 6mm worked well for me with MX switches. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. ** Indicator + drop lighting + per key lighting **. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by kriscables.Start with the one half of the Lily58 Pro PCB and only after completing all the steps below proceed to the another half. How do I socket a microcontroller? and experimentation desire with orthogonal, split keyboards which are the strangest girl in the party. Insert the controller into the PCB (if it is hotswap) and the OLED screen into their respective sockets. Solder the controllers hotswap sockets on the top side of the PCB, in the marked rectangle section. Pro Micro boards dont come with firmware preinstalled, but there is a community-driven project to make it to work called QMK. Lily58 Pro build feedback. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. As mentioned before keyboard parts are usually sold out as they are not manufactured in large chunks. Symptoms: only the first 4 underglow LEDs will work, this will occur on both halves of the board. When attaching with a spring pin header (con-through), solder it according to the method described in the Helix build guide and then attach it to the Lily 58 PCB. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. In the case of badly attached diode: Lily58 Pro Documentation. Available at: https://keyhive.xyz/shop/lily58. (The sockets can also be held in place by hand, but please take extra care not to burn yourself.) Install the oled so it sits over the pro micro, Add rotary encoders last, they are big, and make soldering harder. Double-check the bottom. With a bit more solder than usual on the tip solder down another diode leg and pad. Pcbs and cases are sold in . Lily58 KB Build Guide. Using the base pattern is the only consistent pattern between at least two different models with different pin 1 definitions and markings. I recommend doing one LED and testing it before continuing. Check everything before soldering. Lily58 Pro - ERGONOMIC SPLIT KEYBOARD SOLDERING BUILD GUIDE (beginner friendly). At this point it should function as a keyboard. The QMK firmware is highly customizable, and you can unlock a lot functionality simply by editing the key map. The Lily58 Pro/Pro RE keyboard is a64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. There are plenty of designs out there that have far fewer keys than 58, but for this one I still have a full number row that I read was a better way to be introduced to the layout and the need to leverage keymaps and layers. Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh. I relied on several online resources to learn about what goes into building a keyboard, the basic equipment needed, and the firmware pieces necessary for it all to work. Use metallic tweezersto bridge any 2 switch pins (on the bottom side of the PCB, this simulates a keypress) or insert switches into the soldered hotswap sockets on the PCB.If it registers the shorts/keypresses you did a great job and may proceed with the build.. Especially makes sense to socket your OLED Screens if you socketed your controller as before hot swapping the controller you need to hotswap the OLED Screen.If you dont plan to hotswap the OLED screen, nor the controller, then solder it directly to the PCB. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. The sensation between from a non-lubed against a lubed switch is like day and night, you will feel a smoother activation point and quieter sounds, as this process eliminates all the roughness of the plastic material. If you do not, you will experience "jittery" keystrokes as if some keys were lost while in transit. Following the steps in this guide, you will: Create a new repository in GitHub that will contain your user config. 5 more replies. Are you sure you want to create this branch? If everything works you did a great job and may proceed to the another PCB half.If not, find the issue and fix it. Put the backplate using the standoffs left and screw them together to finish everything! Black PCBs. I dont have Elite-C so this is untested, but should work. If you want that on the Lily58, you need the Elite-C or something similar, which increases the total price to $78, about the same as the Iris. I quickly discovered /r/ergomechkeyboards, saw some beautiful builds, and with not a whole lot else to do during a global pandemic, the lower cost option of building a keyboard myself while meddling with some electronics was the way to go! Screw in the standoffs on the top side of the PCB for the OLED Cover first. One rotary encoder support on each side (optional) Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side) Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side) After being baited by several beautiful builds online, I really had no choice but to dive into the world of mechanical keyboards with zero electronics experience under my belt. Note that the case of the black version has a scratch-resistant paint (solder resist) that can arrive with scratches from shipping and transportation. DO NOT FORGET THESE; they will be very difficult to access after the pro micro is soldered into place. This ensures that the controller works completely before soldering it permanently to the board. Refer to Soldering the controller if you need further guidance. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. Use electrical tape to secure in place while you solder the holes on the bottom side of the PCB. Designed by kata0510, the Lily58 and Lily58 Pro is a split design with a 64 column staggered grid with a 4 key thumb cluster. If you are building a Lily58 rev1.0 with per-key RGB but without underglow, you need to solder the jumper marked JP1 instead of the JP2 indicated in the build guide. Additionally, if there isn't enough solder, please re-solder. Featuring Microcontroller Hotswap Sockets, USB-C Pro Micro, Kailh Switch Hotswap Sockets, Acrylic Plates,. Build-Guide for the Lily58L Split-Keyboard pcb. If you wish to experiment, use 2.54mm headers and jumpers. ** Indicator + per key lighting ** Easy to understand instructions!Link to via website to download firmware and flash. Sockets for switches belong again on the back side, the same side as diodes. Once you verify that, you can set up bluetooth profiles for the keyboard. Here's what I bought in order to completely put together the Lily58. Think twice, solder once. If you have any problems, please feel free to send a message to the "#Lily58" channel on Discord ("Self-Made Keyboards in Japan" (https://discordapp.com/invite/NM7XtDW)) or Twitter: @F_YUUCHI. It should get in smoothly with almost no resistance. keyboard-only usage. Lily58 KB License. For these it is definitely best to do them in order, and test regularly. Insert into holes. You can type 300 wpm with this keyboard Iris Rev 7 with Aluminium Case I Bought The Pewdiepie Keyboard. Flash the controller (pro micro, Elite C, nice!nano, etc) with the firmware. After that, holding gently the diode down with the tweezers solder the corresponding diode leg. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. First of all, you need to solder SMD diodes alongside each switch socket, on my Lily58 PCB Be gentle with micro USB ports on your microcontrollers. Put at least 4 adhesive rubber feet in the corners so the keyboard is not moving when you type. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. The QMK Wiki is a fantastic resource, as is the QMK Discord. You can (and i strongly suggest) to flash the controllers before soldering them, excluding the hard work to desolder it in case you brick it while attempting to flash in some wrong way. The awesome QMK Configurator online tool let's you pick a keyboard, WYSIWYG yourself a keymap, and even get a compiled firmware download that you can then just flash onto your device! When you plug it in, the on-board LEDs should turn on. Depending on the color and release date, some parts may differ, but there is no difference in operation. I used brass ones but you can also buy nicer from anodised aluminium. The OLED is not required but if you omit it, you must disable it in the firmware. If you inserted the switches then check if the switch legs are properly inserted into the socket and arent bend (very common issue). Custom USB Cables and Ergonomical Keyboards, Lily58 Pro 58 keys split keyboard 64 columnar stagger and 4 thumb cluster, compatible with Kailh MX and Choc hotswap sockets. In order to have the OLED Screens enabled, before compiling/flashing the controllers, dont forget to add the code line in the rules.mk file in your Lilys keymap folder: (If you dont plan to hotswap the microcontroller skip to 6th step.). When all diodes have been soldered, check for missing spots. DROP + INVYR HOLY PANDA MECHANICAL SWITCHES, https://github.com/kata0510/Lily58/blob/master/Pro/Doc/buildguide_en.md, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr3nYR15wxU, https://dp12.github.io/posts/adventures-with-the-lily58-part-1/. The Pro version of the Lily58 supports Kailh Choc and MX hot-swap sockets. 4x12 pin header (and optionally socket) for Pro Micros. Soldering & Build difficulty: . These points put together the necessity of building not only an additional Sold the OLED panel on top of each Arduino using long rigid copper cable soldering to the PCB headers. Always disconnect the USB cable first. Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream Nicell 786 subscribers Subscribe 619 42K views 2 years ago A full split Lily58 Pro kit build with nice!nanos running the. In the case of badly attached socket: After that, holding gently the socket down with the tweezers solder the corresponding side. Each half of the keyboard must be programmed separately using this approach. In mainstream switches the quality of this lube is not Work out what leds you wish to have, I have endeavoured to provide plenty of flexibility, and all led configurations are available using the headers available. On the front side of the board, apply enough solder to bridge the four jumper terminals in the ProMicro section. 1 contributor. Kailh Box and choc switches require a bit of force for installation. Clone/download the QMK firmware and execute the following in the qmk_firmware directory to write the default Lily58L keymap. A good alternative would be to use an existing keyboard with leds to inject the signal and power through the LED header. Repeat all the steps above on the another half. If you know what you want, use a solder bridge to enable the leds required. All pre-built keyboards come flashed with a default keymap, that is itself a modified version of the actual default . Peel off the protective plastic layer covering the acrylic, and attach the acrylic to the board. Go to file. 10 (+4) M2 spacers. Install the 4 spacers into the holes just below the pro micro, screw from the bottom. Both halves assembled, a rotary encoder can be added on both, one or none. Re-solder the problem socket, or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak. If you are just looking to try out that layout, and are using the cherry sockets only, then this will work for you. Custom USB Cables and Ergonomical Keyboards. Connect the left and right sides with a TRRS cable, connect the MicroUSB cable to ProMicro on the left side (in the case of the default key map), and check if the key responds. And, as I type this post out with the new keyboard, that was some solid advice! Make sure that you use the outlined headers from whichever side of the board that you mount the micro on. I normally flash the default Lily58 Pro layout. Insert switches into the plate. Reviews. Here's what it looks like about a week in: It's only been a week and I'm still slowly getting the hang of things. over the years Ive learned to shift from keyboard+mouse interaction to almost Test the PCB by checking if it registers keypresses. Put all keycaps on top of the keyswitches, which are the plastic covers. , links for the most of the components in the sourcing parts section, socketing of Pro Micro is on the sourcing parts page, follow the instructions in the documentation, inverted silkscreen theres a great guide available. Many highlights in this guide contain useful links, hover with the mouse over them and click. Dont force it to enter, otherwise you risk to end up with a broken socket/PCB pad like on the photo below. Build Guide This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v3. 13A) Insert all the remaining switches, making sure there are no bended legs. Dependent what you use on the master half. Turn over the board and solder the pins, making sure that the TRRS jack and reset switch are in firm contact with the board. 10 x 7mm Brass Standoffs (MX Normal Profile) OR 5mm Brass Standoffs (Choc Low Profile), 58 x Kailh Hotswap Sockets (MX Normal Profile) OR Choc Low Profile Sockets (Choc Low Profile), 2 x Pro Micro Controllers (Comes with Headers to Direct Attach), 2 x 40 Pin Machined Breakable Female Header (Enable Controller Hot Swap). Create a solder bridge from the led to the board, not spending too much time with the iron on the led (few seconds) otherwise it will burn out. SofleRGB uses QMK firmware, it can use any Sofle keymap. Im really proud of achieving this point. Dont connect or disconnect the TRRS cable when the keyboard is powered. The microcontroller sits on the opposite side of the PCB face to the one that will have diodes and sockets soldered on, so make sure to orientate and slot the controller through the right holes on the correct side. 2 x 25 Pack Mill-Max Machined Pins Build Instructions Lily58 Pro Build Guide This keyboard is designed originally by Naoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. Be gentle with the USB on your microcontroller. It can be found on QMK repo. Button and TRRS sockets belong to the top. Build as usual. and here is the final product . is input (on Windows, etc. We will mount parts on each side. into a rabbit hole while choosing parts, you only have to visit the Mechanical Keyboard subreddit to realize that. They belong to the backside of the PCB. This is done on the top side, all 4 solder bridges must be completed. Dont proceed to another half until youll fix it on this PCB, this way youll avoid repeating same mistake on the second half. The Pro version has color variations, and the photos in this build guide are are of the black version, but the white verison is functionally identical. Now it is already possible to connect the ProMicro and OLED display to the board, flash the firmware and check if all keys work using a piece of wire or tweezers. Make sure you know which way around your leds are, different brands have different pin 1 positions. This was the primary guide I followed for putting together the keyboard. 2, This can be changed, look for setting handednesss in QMK documentation. Connect all your keyswitches on every hotswap sockets using one of the plates and standoffs. Dont overtighten the screws when assembling the acrylic plates as they might crack. I aggregate that information here to help serve as a reference for others planning to give it a shot! 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