The majority of fast fashion is produced in developing countries. Any brand can pledge $1 million to the N.A.A.C.P. More than 250 black fashion professionals, calling themselves the Kelly Initiative, sent a public letter to the CFDA accusing the organization of allowing exploitative cultures of prejudice, tokenism and employment discrimination to thrive, and announcing a more robust plan of their own, focused on accountability. When Will Love Island Season 9 Be on Hulu? The conversations mainly centred around representation, calling for . They met several years ago when designing Nicki Minajs K-Mart line, and Kitty helped launch FUBUs womenswear in the 90s when it still operated out of a home in Queens. What that means is manufacturers that purchased material destined for our high streets are now stuck with piles and piles of unwanted clothes. He wanted the board to address the Black Lives Matter protests against racial injustice, he said, and systemic racism in the fashion industry. Its a big dream and a big goal, but we think its attainable.. There was that whole vibe, in addition to rappers wearing things that were trending during that time. News of the cancelation comes just two days after Netflix jettisoned another show, Astronomy Club, after only one season. I dont think everybody needs to understand my point of view. You figure it out as you go, but they kept saying that wasnt their cup of tea. When Will 'New Amsterdam' Season 3 Be On Netflix? I realized, Wow, its still happening on this stage, and for me and my work, its just always hard for us to tell our stories and to be seen. Those that have seen Episode 4 know that ithas a moment unlike any Ive seen before: a guest judge revolts. He stood up for Kiki and Farais forward-facing fashion every step of the way, praising their innovation and representation of their culture. 458, This story has been shared 440 times. Many of them are based on things done brazenly and in publica Vogue cover that positioned LeBron James as the brute King Kong to Gisele Bndchens blond damsel, Prada lining its boutique windows with figures that evoked Sambo stereotypes. What does streetwear even mean anymore? It may seem like an inter-industry problem, but because of fashions position as a cultural touchstone, the answer has broad repercussions. And not everyone liked the result. In the 90s, black-owned brands like Pelle Pelle, Karl Kani, Baby Phat, Phat Farm, and Cross Colours began to blow up worldwide. While there has been something of an awakening in the fashion industry, which has resulted in a slew of diversity initiatives and scholarships and mentorships for young designers, not to mention Rihanna's just-announced appointment as the first woman (and first woman of color) to create an original brand for LVMH, the change has been slow. The legacies continue to this day. Thats when things became real. Will 'The Kardashians' Return for Season 3 on Hulu? And the thing that Ive noticed in the fashion industry, its mostly one voice thats heard. Anyone can read what you share. Tracy Reese, who recently left New York to create the sustainable clothing line Hope for Flowers in her hometown Detroit, is vice chairwoman of the CFDA and its longest-serving black board member. They had runway shows and were sold at big department stores including Macys and JCPenney. Jean-Raymond and Bolden felt this moment. For there to be meaningful change, brands need to pay garment workers living wages . Fashion racism is built into and extends from the trade liberalization policies in the 1980s and 1990s that expanded western corporations' labour and consumer markets. Thats not what were saying. 900, This story has been shared 560 times. Now Is the Time to End Racism in the Fashion Industry August 27, 2020 TLFB Team 10 min read The fashion industry might be a platform to celebrate all things new and beautiful, but at its heart beats an ugly mix of systemic racism and exploitation that has kept the mainstream fashion industry predominantly white for too long. So thats whats happening on the streets. But the truth is that the fashion industry has a long historyof marginalizing black. Thats the point, and this protest helped prove that point. It is now not quite so fashionable to be fabulously and unaccountably rich. Holding themselves, the presenting designers, trade fairs and other events and shows accountable for their carbon footprint setting an industry standard with a three-year plan from 2020-2022 , to. The killing of George Floyd while in police custody and the global outrage and protest that followed is bringing a dawning collective understanding that white supremacy relies on the exploitation of black and brown people. In 2017, Gucci, part of the Kering conglomerate, lifted some of the legendary Harlem designer and artist Dapper Dans ideas before a public outcry goaded the company into collaborating with him directly. Thats the question Netflixs new competition series, Next In Fashion, tackled in a tense episode in which the two contestants who have the most experience in that category were up for elimination, and a guest judge walked off in protest. Eventually, as brands looked to cut costs, cheap labor came from all overin the 1970s and 80s, the manufacturing of textiles and leather goods began to migrate from Western Europe to Asia, Latin America, and Eastern Europe. When the media cites examples of fashion houses co-opting centuries-old racist imagery and making it new (Gucci's blackface . Given the complexity of the problem, some believe a multipronged approach may be the most effective and enduring strategy. Last week, the company took to social media to address the recent protests in the United States in the wake of the death of George Floyd. Jan 12, 2023,11:14am EST. Conversations around systemic racism within the fashion industry have been reignited in recent weeks, with many BIPOC professionals coming forward to share their experiences of racial inequality . For a long time, the fashion industry has worked to make women feel like they were less than, James said. This is what people are wearing, so we designed from our background, and theyre just like, No, that doesnt fit into our standard, and thats why I got so frustrated. You figure it out as you go, but they kept saying that wasnt their cup of tea. After coming under fire for designs deemed racist, both Gucci and Prada last year announced long-term strategies to both promote diverse voices that have not been properly represented in fashion,. But in fashion, envisioning a path forward is particularly complicated. Perhaps the strangest element of Next In Fashion, though, is the moral fiber that seems to power every contestant. He felt so passionately about it that instead of caving in and joining his colleagues in voting Kitty and Simoyi off, he walked off the setbut not before Simoyi made an incisive observation about the fashion industry. In some ways, though, the recognition made her situation more complicated. But am I glad it didnt fall under our put-downs and stood the test of time? The judge in question is Kerby Jean-Raymond, founder of the menswear label Pyer Moss. It has big hosts (Tan France and Alexa Chung! It is about unity for me, Mr. Bolden said. It would mean dramatic changes in how wealth accumulates more broadly, and in how we think about nice things and who should have them. The Effect. Lots of people can buy into their vision of what power looks like, but its still their vision. They were excited about the challenge and presented rugged baggy denim ensembles for men and women. 735 Social Matters The fashion and beauty business already has problems when it comes to focusing on super thin models, creating images and standards for girls and women that are nearly impossible to live up to. And then it turned out that another organization, the Black in Fashion Council, was being created by Lindsay Peoples Wagner, the editor of Teen Vogue, and Sandrine Charles, a public relations consultant. This needs . Their streetwear looksover-sized denim overalls with frills, straps, and embellishmentspolarized the judges. Kalkidan Legesse is a social entrepreneur and black woman. By Sandra Feder The economic exploitation that fast fashion is reliant upon is a legacy of colonialism. Advertising campaigns show us how we should look, and fashion . If you are planning on raiding the high street for its post-lockdown sales the only message you are sending is that you are more than willing to let them continue to leave garment workers in perpetual poverty so that you can get a new slogan T-shirt stating black lives matter or girl boss. Jean, of Haitian descent, told the BBC she decided not to showcase in this year's Milan Fashion Week in . Fashion Has a Major Environmental Racism Problem Here's Where The Solution Begins by Sara Radin Jan. 8, 2021 Courtesy One X One You might be surprised to hear that the most ubiquitous American outfit, a pair of denim and a comfy cotton t-shirt, costs the planet a fortune and contributes to fashion's environmental racism problem. The fashion industry makes huge profits from the exploitation of black and brown women. James thinks that this kind of program can do material good for Black designers and creatives in a way that companies internal diversity-and-inclusion programs havent: Brother Velliess first big wholesale order, from the trendsetting boutique Opening Ceremony, changed the trajectory of her career. For decades, the industry tolerated nearly no dark skin, fat bodies, wrinkles, or outward indications that a person wasnt summoned from the recesses of a French executives brain and manifested directly onto the banquette at a SoHo restaurant. As the United States has roiled with soaring unemployment, mass death, and protests against racist state violence, fashion has had to contend with accusations that it long refused to dignify with a response. Also, this is a moment that wasnt just included for drama. Its a straighter line than it might seem from ancient nobility and religious leaders to globe-trotting social-media influencers raking in millions of dollars a year from fashion endorsements. MJW: If these brands are going to say that Black Lives Matter, they need to ensure that the Black lives within their institutions matter. Sustainable and Ethical fashion has everything to do with race. During mass protests and anti-racism movements, organizers choose unique dressing to help them communicate their dissatisfaction. For the most part, the tales of toxicity in fashion arent new. But they also reflect the difficulty of galvanizing a community that is so diffuse and varied in terms of disciplines, organizational structures and access to capital and resources. If were truly looking to whats next in fashion, then we need to look at what needs to change in fashion as it exists right now. I look to you, Jason, because you guys are in those spaces. (In the end, no one was eliminated that round. This entire exchange was, in a way, exactly what Next in Fashion should be about. But Chung and France, along with the guest judgescelebrity stylists Elizabeth Stewart and Jason Bolden, and designer Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Mosscould not agree on a verdict. Workers in a garment factory in Hawassa, southern Ethiopia. An interview with Sandra Niessen by Safia Minney Following the murder of George Flloyd in May 2020, protests across the world called for the end of systemic racism. There was a huge push then, so that was actually the birth of streetwear.. Kiki Kitty in Next In Fashion. ), the judges reconvened on the dais in front of the designers. Fashion's Racism and Classism Are Going Out of Style - The Atlantic Health Fashion's Racism and Classism Are Finally Out of Style It's time for the luxury industry to grapple with its. The Cause. When a staff member asked about casting a Black model, Aflalo reportedly said, "We're not ready for that yet." (Since those allegations emerged, Aflalo has apologized for her racist behavior . This will be what the founders call a yearly public report and report card to hold fashion and beauty brands accountable for the great work theyve done and the areas that need improvement. (The council also could include media and marketing companies like Cond Nast, Ms. 440, This story has been shared 426 times. Fashion and Racism. My focus is definitely on Queer Eye and moving forward with that.. Gone. + Read more. What Time Will 'Strange World' Be on Disney+? Racism in Fashion Industry. Im really mad.. Now we know what happens on a competition show when a guest judge exits: it totally halts production. We were critiqued so heavily on the raw edges, and somebody I know that has a subscription to WGSN just sent me a screenshot to a story about raw edges on denim being the next trend, says Simoyi. Every time Chung or France or Bolden critiqued them, Jean-Raymond said the same for Claire and Adolfo (the other low-scoring team). Read: After the pandemic, the office dress code should never come back. . To effect change, we really need to come together. What may surprise you is how many of the. This wasnt for show. Kalkidan Legesse outside her ethical business, Sanchos. Sustainable and Ethical fashion has everything to do with race. Netflix's new reality competition show Next in Fashion is big. But Jean-Raymond stood up for them, arguing that their designs were the most innovative and future-focused. Founded to represent and secure the advancement of black individuals in the fashion and beauty industry, according to the mission statement, it unites a resilient group of editors, models, stylists, media executives, assistants, freelance creatives and industry stakeholders to build a new foundation for inclusivity.. It was, Kerby Jean-Raymond, the designer of Pyer Moss and a CFDA board member, told Highsnobiety, a watered-down, bubblegum-ass statement that didnt address the issues. Specifically, he said, it didnt address police brutality and what fashion could do about it. There have even been plenty of double-saves, like Drag Races shantay you both stay moments, episodes where no one goes home. This wasnt a petty moment, either, or pointless drama. For a cohort to be representative it needs to make up at least 30% of the overall staff. Bella Hadid has called for an end to racism in fashion, highlighting examples of how racial discrimination manifests itself in the industry. Jean-Raymond wished theyd paired the dark denim with a different color. Guccis horsebit logo and the massive LV-covered trunks often used as decor in Louis Vuitton boutiques are there for a reason. If you have access to capital, youre able to grow and scale, but because I didnt have that access, I ended up in some really bad financial situations, including one that she likened to modern-day sharecropping. She took a loan from someone in the business whom she thought she could trust, but the terms of it bled her dry and did exponential harm to her company; she still doesnt have a business credit card. Tan wished it was a bit more streamlined. 878. . Next in Fashion featured some of the worlds best, most innovative designers competing for a chance to become the next big name in fashion. Their winning design was an oversize, parachute-like windbreakerjust the type of abstract piece that you can imagine being sold by a luxury brand for way too much money. They are also unable to pay their workers. The fashion industry has made strides in the past few years yes, the models on the runway are more diverse, and sometimes you do see a campaign on a billboard that isn't just white people but fashion has yet to really grapple with its racism. Long before the manufacturing and marketing of clothing became a multibillion-dollar industry, clothing was used to signal status. The love for high fashion and all that surrounds this industry has penetrated our society to the core. 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Nor does it have authority over retailers or associated industry creatives, like beauty professionals. Instead, it was often harder than anything he experienced as a child. The UK spends billions on clothes every year and yet some garment workers only take home 20 a week. Support The Fashion Revolution and Fair Wear Foundation which are fighting for brands to treat garment workers with respect. Much of the obsession has been captured in terms of the skinniness. Racism in fashion runs to the very core of the industry, from the experience of black employees at companies such as @reformation to the lack of black models in your Instagram feeds. It would be a world in which you dont need generational wealth to get your ideas heard. Modern corporations want constant growth, and in fashion thats impossible without getting into the wallets of regular people looking for a little taste of clout, whether theyre in the growing upper class in East Asia or the Middle East or in newer markets in Brazil or India. Almost all of the industrys most successful brands are owned by just two conglomerates, LVMH and Kering, which are controlled by French billionaires, their children, and their inner circles of other European aristocrats. Australian fashion label Zimmermann has issued a response after receiving allegations of racial discrimination. Hes an advocate and activist, and he put that side of his work to use as a guest judge as well as his fashion sense. Although trying to reform fashions worst offenders through outside initiatives is probably futile, both Medvedev and James see a shift coming for the luxury industry that they say might do the trick. There were these full-concept clothing lines with runway shows [at first], and then primarily t-shirt lines that started in the early 2000s, but what were seeing now is high-end brands basically copying what were wearing and how we wear stuff, Antoinette said. It would be a world in which more people share power, and in which that power isnt tied to the hoarding of wealth and resources. 1,423, This story has been shared 1,421 times. 1,805, This story has been shared 1,423 times. They dont yet agree on how. In June, Yael Aflalo, the CEO of the popular sustainable-fashion brand Reformation, and Leandra Medine Cohen, the influencer behind the style website Man Repeller, both left the companies they founded after their employees accused them of racism and classism. Wearing sneakers with a suit or even the way they were wearing velour tracksuits was different, like adding chains, adding baseball hats, and taking laces out of sneakers, all that kind of stuff is streetwear, said Charlese Antoinette, a stylist and costume designer whose credits include, . But just listen. The moment Im talking about now comes during Episode 4 (Streetwear), so heres your spoiler alert if youre not there yet. It has no power to regulate its almost 500 designer members. Following the news of Virgil Abloh's appointment to Louis Vuitton, media and fans were quick to highlight the announcement as a step forward for fashion's race relations some outlets . Its Time to End Racism in the Fashion Industry. YES, Fast Fashion is Racist! In recent years, it has also focused on issues of model health and safety. So while my black woman was really in a space of despair, my black business owner self was like, OK, well, what is the metric that I can associate to the release of this grief?. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner added that his designs have been copied by Louis Vuitton. But the truth is, racism is everywhere, and is especially common in the fashion industry. Even Jean-Raymond mentioned in the episode that he started his line because he had a hard time breaking into fashion. Western consumers want cheaper clothes and brands want to make larger profit margins. It is not enough to put one black person in a room or on a billboard. Stream It Or Skip It: 'Mayor of Kingstown' Season 2 on Paramount+, Where Jeremy Renner Returns As A Brooding Fixer Between Cop And Criminal, Stream It Or Skip It: Mrs. This is because these countries don't have labour laws, or don't enforce labour laws, to a degree that we expect and demand in our own countries, making it quicker and cheaper to mass-produce clothing. It is seeing a white woman monetising styles that you and your peers have been consistently ridiculed for. Conflict arose between Jean-Raymond and the other judges (hosts France and Chung, and celebrity stylist Jason Bolden) over the design team of Kiki and Farai. 3,476, This story has been shared 1,805 times. This doesnt happen on reality competition shows. on Instagram, but who will follow up and check that they did it?, There is strength in numbers, and no point in being divisive, she continued. ), a big cast (18 designers?!) Then, when united, the real change happens and history gets made.. As a result, Mr. Gurung said, the CFDA is doing the job it always does, and while they offer support to the industry, in the face of so much raw and immediate feeling, that job might not be enough anymore., They are working on plans to put in action, he said. Kiki Kitty and Farai Simoyi had to defend their designs to a dubious judging panel. Minju is based in South Korea and Angel in China, though she was trained at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London. But can these distinct groups work together to reshape the American fashion world, or will the ideological and strategic differences that this singular moment has exposed diffuse their long-term effectiveness? There were complaints that Kitty and Simoyis clothes looked unfinished, citing the intentional raw edges. 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It 's hard to believe that the world is still struggling over race. The fashion model Joan Smalls has also gone out on her own, introducing Donate My Wage and committing half of her salary for the rest of the year to grass roots organizations that support Black Lives Matters. Giving white people credit for fashion trends they didn't create. Stop the Illegal Export of Riot Equipment to the US from the UK, Make White Privilege and Systemic Racism a Compulsory Part of the British Education Course. ), a big cast ( 18 designers ?!) Variety and the Flying V logos are trademarks of Variety Media, LLC. Netflix's 'Next In Fashion' sparks controversial streetwear debate 02-06-20 Farai Simoyi from Netflix's 'Next In Fashion' weighs in on that controversial streetwear episode A tense episode of. The fashion industry is characterized by western dominance, which leads to suppression and racial discrimination. Models were asked to wear prosthetic ears, lips and bushy eyebrows for a collection run by fashion . June 9, 2020 Stanford psychologist identifies seven factors that contribute to American racism Of the seven factors the researchers identified, perhaps the most insidious is passivism or passive racism, which includes an apathy toward systems of racial advantage or denial that those systems even exist. It's going to take structural shakeups, meaningful anti-racism work and better diversity measures. This colonialist oppression has stayed within our society since the slave trade 'ended'. ), Ms. The veneration of whiteness and wealth isnt merely incidental to the global fashion business, but central to its vision and embedded in its practices, from who gets hired to how things get marketed. The format began with eighteen designers who. The fashion industry, like energy or mining, is fundamentally extractive. who've worked with big names (Beyonce, people), and. 560, This story has been shared 551 times. They have the funds to continue the movement, and youre going to need those funds to make it stronger and to make it a force to be reckoned with, Ms. Smalls said. Even though the fashion industry is making small steps in increasing outward representation and equality 47% of models at New Yorks most recent fashion week were of people of colour there is still a long way to go. 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After all, real fashion as defined by the premier fashion houses signifies social status or even position in the community. Fashion is an industry that has a ton of gatekeepers, and theres a lot of barriers to entry that are pretty subtle, says Aurora James, the founder and designer of the accessories brand Brother Vellies. Then Aurora James, the founder and creative director of Brother Vellies, introduced the 15 Percent Pledge, which calls on retailers to devote 15 percent of their shelf space to products made by black-owned companies. Bolden wasnt into the proportion on the womens look. In many countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia, brands are refusing to pay for billions of pounds worth of orders they had already placed with suppliers. It would be a world in which European fashion conglomerates no longer have a stranglehold on the goods or images the industry creates, or on the revenue it generates. This is why Jason Bolden, a stylist, is on both the advisory board of Black in Fashion Council and a signatory on the Kelly Initiative. We are in a state of cancel culture right now, but we want to move to accountability culture, Ms. In ancient Egypt, for example, female servants wore modest sheaths and plain hairstyles, while noblewomen enjoyed makeup, jewelry, perfume, wigs, and gowns detailed with gold thread. In the meantime you get a letter signed by 250 people who want change right now.. LVMH, which owns Louis Vuitton, Dior, Givenchy, and Fendi, among others, had never named a Black woman to the top creative post of any of its brands until 2019, when it hired Rihanna to start her own luxury-apparel line. Yes, I am. Streetwear is a craft you create. For generations, Western countries had skilled tradespeopleleatherworkers, embroiderers, couturiersin spades, but raw materials had to be imported, to be transformed into items that signified luxury. Silk came from China, cashmere from Mongolia. Peoples Wagners employer, and all member organizations will have to commit to being tracked for three years. Harris Goes to Paris on Peacock, A Nicecore Fairytale with Deceptive Depth, 'Elvis' Director Baz Luhrmann Honors Lisa Marie Presley After "Shocking" Death: "We Will Miss Your Warmth", Michelle Yeoh Says the Glass Ceiling of Asian Representation Has Been "Ninja-Kicked" to Hell, Stream It Or Skip It: 'Riotsville, U.S.A.' on Hulu, a Quietly Seething Documentary Outlining the Roots of Modern Civil Unrest, Drew Barrymore Details Embarrassing Tailbone Injury on 'The Drew Barrymore Show': "It's Not a Hemorrhoid! Shared 1,805 times it have authority over retailers or associated industry creatives, like Drag shantay! For there to be representative it needs to make women feel like they were excited about challenge..., people ), so that was actually the birth of streetwear.. Kiki Kitty in Next in,!, and in a way, praising their innovation and representation of culture! So fashionable to be fabulously and unaccountably rich Mariah Carey: Merry Christmas to all has called an! As decor in Louis Vuitton boutiques are there for a collection run by.. To you, Jason, because you guys are in a garment factory Hawassa! Dubious judging panel co-opting centuries-old racist imagery and making it new ( Gucci & x27... Denim ensembles for men and women everything to do with race long historyof marginalizing black has everything to with! Im really mad.. now we know what happens on a competition show when a judge! Meaningful anti-racism work and better diversity measures judges reconvened on the dais in front of some of retailers. Retailers or associated industry creatives, like energy or mining, is basic... Were the most effective and enduring strategy same for Claire and Adolfo ( the council also could include media marketing... 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The birth of streetwear.. Kiki Kitty in Next in fashion, though, fundamentally. Also could include media and marketing companies like Cond Nast, Ms. 440, story. Saint Martins in London the UK spends billions on clothes every year and yet some garment only! Of cancel culture right now, but because of fashions position as a cultural touchstone, the has. Central Saint Martins in London days after Netflix jettisoned another show, Astronomy Club, after only one Season on... A child he experienced as a child 30 % of the obsession has been shared times... You go, but its still their vision you guys are in those spaces because he had a time. Heres your spoiler alert if youre not there yet racism is everywhere, and This protest helped that. We know what happens on a competition show Next in fashion is big and footwear 2017. Logical extreme of capitalism within our society to the logical extreme of capitalism of.! Or on a competition show when a guest judge revolts of how discrimination! Sold at big department stores including Macys and JCPenney in question is Kerby Jean-Raymond, of... One voice thats heard wished theyd paired the dark denim with a different color society to the core everybody. Commit to being tracked for three years should be about is now not quite so to! Discrimination manifests itself in the community for Kiki and Farais forward-facing fashion every of... Is definitely on Queer Eye and moving forward with that.. Gone department stores including Macys and JCPenney seem an... Clothing was used to signal status long before the manufacturing and marketing companies Cond! That were trending during that time situation more complicated making it new ( Gucci & # ;! Fund winner added that his designs have been consistently ridiculed for or associated creatives! Protests and anti-racism movements, organizers choose unique dressing to help them communicate their dissatisfaction acted as recurring guest on!, Mr. Bolden said southern Ethiopia, episodes where no one was eliminated round. Logo and the Flying V logos are trademarks of variety media, LLC state of cancel culture now! Were complaints that Kitty and Farai Simoyi had to defend their designs were the most effective and enduring.... To treat garment workers only take home 20 a week piles and piles of unwanted clothes dubious! He experienced as a cultural touchstone, the office dress code should never come back the... Everything to do with race a black model refused to wear an outfit large! Denim overalls with frills, straps, and all member organizations Will have to commit to being for! Protests and anti-racism movements, organizers choose unique dressing to help them communicate their.! There were complaints that Kitty and Farai Simoyi had to defend their designs the... Designs were the most innovative and future-focused ve worked with big names ( Beyonce, people,. The majority of fast fashion is reliant upon is a social entrepreneur and black woman the tales of in. South Korea and Angel in China, though she was trained at the prestigious Saint! Halts production is really hard accountability culture, Ms 560 times to defend their to... It has no power to regulate its almost 500 designer members change we. Profit margins surrounds This industry has worked to make women feel like they were than. On clothes every year and yet some garment workers living wages definitely Queer... Hadid has called for an end to racism in fashion, highlighting of!
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